And then we saw this
The skyline is very modern with white skyscrapers on the other side of the docks. We opened the patio door of our cabin and the heat hit us at 8.15 am. We were told it would be hot and we would need sunscreen and mosquito repellent as well as comfortable shoes and a hat. Check. Down the gangway where ladies in traditional costume were waiting with baskets of fruit on their heads, no not to sell but to be photographed with. On to a coach with our guide, Sergio, a Bill Cosby lookalike both in appearance and humour. We set off for the mangroves with a short stop at a fortress.
It was built by the Spanish Conquistadores to defend the colony against the French and English. Built by African slaves over a period of 140 years, it is massive and has 42 kilometres of tunnels underneath. At some point Sir Francis Drake came to have a pop at It with 24000 men but was driven back by only 3000, led by a local hero with only one arm, one leg and one eye. We were impressed that he didn't fall over let alone beat Sir Francis Drake. Colombians from the Caribbean region see themselves as completely different from those in mountain areas like the capital Bogotá. Sergio explained that in Colombia, there are pure whites, mestizos ( White Spanish and indigenous)), mulattos (white Spanish and African) sambo (African and indigenous) pure indigenous and pure black., I think. But wait, they are classified even more. Every year a Government official come see to your house and asks all about your income, family, savings, house etc. Then you are given a class number from 1to 5. 1 and 2 are working class, 3 and 4 are middle class and 5 is rich. This number goes on your ID card. One of the major outcomes is that if you need medical treatment, your contribution to the government health scheme varies. Number 1s pay nothing, number 2s pay 10% and so on. Number 5s pay half. You cannot retire unless you have worked for a certain length of time in your life and paid in a percentage of your salary. If you haven't, it's tough because there is no other welfare system. Our guide said, You work or you lie down in the street and die. There were lots of young men buzzing up and down on mopeds carrying spare helmets. They give rides for payment and we saw a lot of people on the back with shopping bags.
We arrived at the canoe place where we were advised that it was 4 people per canoe. I sat behind a massive man with a goatee and a scarf over his head covered in skulls.
Every time I tried to lean to one side to look ahead to take a photo, the punter said, Sit in middle! We sailed across the river and into a canal in the mangroves. There are 4 sorts of mangrove, red, brown, white and black. I asked the punter what colour these were and they were red but the all looked grey brown.
The mangrove is tidal and the water level goes up quite a lot. Someone spotted a creature a bit like a raccoon but I missed what the punter said it was. Lots of birds though, egrets, herons and others I didn't recognise. Sergio said one was a diving duck???
Lots of tiny fish and big ones jumping out. But my favourite was the Holy Dog of Cartagena which we were lucky to see as he was out for a walk on the water.
A fisherman was parked out on the river and we all gathered round to see a demonstration of how he caught snappers. He didn't catch anything so he whipped a couple of sardines out of his canoe and said these were some he had caught earlier. Fisherman always lie about catching fish, don't they? He also showed us some fiddly little crabs he had caught in cages.
Back to land for a demonstration of local music which sounded very African and dancing which was a bit Spanish looking. Free coconut water to drink from the shell. Very nice.
On then to the old town for a comfort break and shopping. The shops were for tourists and housed in the old dungeons, one shop per dungeon. There were emeralds of all sizes for sale alongside the usual tourist tat. The lady assistant told Sandra she would give her a good deal for 50 dollars but Sandra wasn't tempted, more a diamond girl.
So then a walk through the Casco Antiguo, the old town, surrounded by high walls in pretty good condition dating from the 16 century. There were some lovely houses, colonial Spanish style with many balconies covered in flowers. Sergio told us that Cartagena is the most beautiful city in the world and recorded at length the cost of these houses. He said one was worth 6 million dollars. Methinks he was exaggerating a bit.
On to San Pedro Claver Square with some interesting iron sculptures. Named after Pedro Claver, a Spanish monk who allegedly converted some 65000 Africans to Christianity in 1622 ???
We are melting by this time in 80 odd degree heat with 90% humidity. So it was nice to get back in the air conditioned bus though we had to navigate a path through dozens of street sellers of coffee, necklaces, sunglasses, tablecloths, tee shirts, cigars and assorted tat.
Sergio asked repeatedly if we had enjoyed the tour, was it worth it, had he been a good guide, did we appreciate the coach and driver. We wondered whether there was a subtext?
Back onboard, lunch and bag a prime sunbathing spot for the afternoon.
And today's re enactment is Sandra's choice, the ever popular film. Hairspray
After that there was the third round of a talent show, don't ask.
























































